A10 Weapons Manual

SMART WEAPONS: INSTRUCTIONS FOR PART NUMBERS: 1038-1 & 2

Trim the lip from the perimeter of the parts sheet so it will lay flat on the work surface.
Hold short strips of masking tape and attach it to each of the “shells” to act as handles and ease construction during assembly.
Attach a full sheet of 180 grit sandpaper to the work surface with tape.
Use the tape handles to hold the parts while you sand the backside of the shells. This will thin the plastic around the parts and remove the “roll” at its base.
Apply pressure evenly while sanding and stop before the sandpaper breaks through. Your progress can be monitored by holding the parts sheet up to a bright light.
Finnish removing the parts with an a razor Note: Allow the sand paper to break through on the doubler shells (Identified by the groove molded down the center).
Apply plastic cement to the inside edge of the shell then install the bonding doublers.
One half of the doubler should be inside the shell while the other half protrudes from the shell.
Once the cement has set, repeat the step to the same shell half.
Apply cement to one of the doublers near the shell seam and place the other shell half in place. Position for best fit and allow the cement to set. Apply cement to the other side and close the gap to finish bonding the shells together.
Allow the bonds to dry completely; overnight would be best.
Use the edge of the hobby knife to scrape away the flashing around the seam. If the plastic gums up while scraping, the cement is not dry enough. Fill the seam voids with plastic model filler then sand and prime.
Bond the fins to the fin back plates and allow to dry. Trim the excess back plate flush with the molded fin.
To attach the fins, scrape away any primer so the cement will hold. Bond the opposite fin in place next then while looking at the end view make adjustments to the fins so they line up.
Repeat the steps to attach the last two fins in place. You will have about a half hour to make adjustments to the fin angles. Once you are happy with their positions, allow the cement to dry completely
Prime the model and fix any unnoticed defects. Paints with strong solvents may soften the plastic so light coats should be applied or at least tested on scrap plastic. Tamiya brand paint is recommended.
Model Master Brand liquid cement is recommended. Other adhesives can be used but should be tested on scrap plastic before assembly begins. CA adhesives work also, however the use of “kicker” will harden the plastic and cause it to crack.
Panel lines can be added with a sharpie pen or for fainter lines, a pencil with a soft lead will work too.

MODERN BOMBS: INSTRUCTIONS FOR PART NUMBERS: 1037-12

Trim the lip from the perimeter of the parts sheet so it will lay flat on the work surface. Fold short strips of masking tape and attach it to each of the “shells” (see photo) the tape will act as a handle and ease construction during assembly.
Attach a full sheet of 180 grit sandpaper to the work surface with tape to hold it in place. Use the tape handles to hold the parts while you sand the backside of the shells. This will thin the plastic around the parts and remove the “roll” at its base.
Apply pressure evenly while sanding and stop before the sandpaper breaks through. Your progress can be monitored by holding the parts sheet up to a bright light. Finnish removing the parts with an a razor Note: Allow the sand paper to break through on the doubler shells (Identified by the groove molded down the center.)
Apply plastic cement to the inside edge of the shell then install the bonding doublers. One half of the doubler should be inside the shell while the other half protrudes from the shell.
Once the cement has set, repeat the step to the same shell half. Apply cement to one of the doublers near the shell seam and place the other shell half in place. Position for best fit and allow the cement to set.
Apply cement to the other side and close the gap to finish bonding the shells together. Allow the bonds to dry completely; overnight would be best.
Use the edge of the hobby knife to scrape away the flashing around the seam. If the plastic gums up while scraping, the cement is not dry enough. Fill the seam voids with plastic model filler then sand and prime.
Bond the fins to the model by dipping the fin’s edge in cement and hold it in position for about 45 seconds. Bond the opposite fin in place next then while looking at the end view make adjustments to the fins so they line up.
Repeat the steps to attach the last two fins in place. You will have about a half hour to make adjustments to the fin angles. Once you are happy with their positions, allow the cement to dry completely.
Cut the prop from the parts sheet and give the blades a little twist to give them some pitch then bond it to the model.
Paint the model a light gray. Paints with strong solvents may soften the plastic so light coats should be applied or at least tested on scrap plastic. Tamiya brand paint is recommended.
Model Master Brand liquid cement is recommended. PN / 8872. Other adhesives can be used but should be tested on scrap plastic before assembly begins. Ca adhesives work also, however the use of “kicker” will harden the plastic and cause it to crack.
Panel lines can be added with a sharpie pen or for fainter lines, a pencil with a soft lead will work too.

Trim the lip from the perimeter of the parts sheet so it will lay flat on the work surface.

Hold short strips of masking tape and attach it to each of the “shells” to act as handles and ease construction during assembly.

Attach a full sheet of 180 grit sandpaper to the work surface with tape.

Use the tape handles to hold the parts while you sand the backside of the shells. This will thin the plastic around the parts and remove the “roll” at its base.

Apply pressure evenly while sanding and stop before the sandpaper breaks through. Your progress can be monitored by holding the parts sheet up to a bright light.

Finnish removing the parts with an a razor Note: Allow the sand paper to break through on the doubler shells (Identified by the groove molded down the center).

Apply plastic cement to the inside edge of the shell then install the bonding doublers.

One half of the doubler should be inside the shell while the other half protrudes from the shell.

Once the cement has set, repeat the step to the same shell half.

Apply cement to one of the doublers near the shell seam and place the other shell half in place. Position for best fit and allow the cement to set. Apply cement to the other side and close the gap to finish bonding the shells together.

Allow the bonds to dry completely; overnight would be best.