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If you have not worked
with foam before, it is strongly recommended that you read the
How To section
first. Wowplanes kits are "builder's kits". We assume that the builder has at least an intermediate skill level in building RC flying models and has built kits and ARFs before in balsa, if not in foam. The objective of this manual is to illustrate the features and construction techniques that are unique to this model. It is not the intent of this manual to show the basics such as installation of motors, radio, servos, linkages, etc. which are common to all models. Wowplanes kits lend themselves to finishing the model in multiple ways. The model may be left as bare foam and painted with foam safe paint, covered with low temperature heat shrink covering, fiber glassed and painted, sheeted with balsa and painted, or use our revolutionary Liquid Sheeting product. Before you start building it is recommended that you decide what option you plan to pursue. Depending on the finishing option, you may have to alter the sequence of construction outlined below. e.g. if you plan to sheet the model with balsa, it would be easier to build and sheet the individual sub-assemblies before assembling the whole plane. Contents
3.0 The Power Plant 5.0 Wheel Pods & Main Retracts 6.0
Tail
7.0 Finishing 11.0 Installation of Electronics
2.0 Fuselage
Before the foam parts are assembled together, we need to do some prep work.
2.2 Fuselage Nose and
Hatch
2.3 Fuselage Wing Section
2.4 Fuselage Tail Section
Cooling exit hole
2.5 Complete Fuselage Assembly
2.6 Battery Hatch Cover
2.7 Wing Fillets
2.8 Retractable Nose Gear & Steering
Here are some pictures of the cockpit interior and the canopy exterior on the full size plane.
MODIFICATION: The next set of pictures show a 1/2" wide strip of 1/64" plywood being glued to the flap. The 1/2" wide dimension is in error and should read 3 1/2". The plywood should also be 1/4" longer than the flap on each side. The pictures below show a 1/2" strip and were take before the change. The finished wing should end up looking like this. Also the flap have been changed to be more scale and are not as deep as shown in the picture below.
4.3 Mid and Inboard flap panel assembly
4.6 Aileron and Outboard flap panel assembly
Glue the two wing panels on a flat surface using epoxy and filler.
Temporarily tape all the control surface in their neutral positions, and sand the TE in a straight line with a stick sander.
5.0 Wheel Pods and Main Retracts
Note: The next 4 pictures were taken before the flap chord was reduced to make it closer to scale. The plywood mount plate should still go in the same location but the flap hinge plywood will not need to be cut.
7.0 Finishing
Panel lines and rivets can be
optionally applied using Wowplane Rivet Stencils and Panel Line Tape.
To apply domed rivets follow the directions below:
Next we apply 6 thin coats of LSll.
Wait 48 hours and spray a coat of
hi-build primer. Sand and fill low spots with Bondo Glazing Putty, and apply
another coat of hi-build primer. Panel lines, rivets and raised panels may
be optionally added before the second primer coat. The fuselage is now ready
for the final paint in the color scheme of your choice.
After the LSll has cured for at least 24 hours, spray a coat of hi-build primer and wet sand with 400 grit paper. Fill and low spots with glazing putty as before. Before the second and final primer coat is applied, we can add optional details such as lights, panel lines, and rivets, etc. l
8.0 Weapon Pylons
Cover pylons with 2 coats of Liquid Sheet, prime & paint to match underside of wing. Weapon set is an option and instructions are provided with the set. Click here
Scratch the surface of LSll with fine sand paper. Wash the frame with water and dish detergent and dry thoroughly. Spray one final coat of primer and allow to dry. Now the plane is ready to be painted with the color scheme of your choice. Shown below are the various color schemes used on the full sized A10. The model in this manual has been modeled after the full size A10 shown below.
11.0 Installation of Electronics
Placement of the batteries should be done during the CG test. The CG is at 3.4" back from the LE where the wing meets the fuselage. The batteries can be located such that the model balances without need for additional weight. If necessary, adding additional nose or tail weight is fine.
No newly built model should be flown without conducting thorough bench tests. For an electric model such as this, a Wattmeter, a Thermometer, and a Timer are very useful tools. Secure the plane on the bench or the stand. Since a EDF plane does not have prop wash, it is necessary to provide moving air. This can be achieved with a fan or a leaf blower pointed at the nose. Run the motors for 1 minute at full throttle. Measure the the current draw & the temperatures at battery, the ESC, and the motor. If any are reaching their spec temperature limits, it may be necessary to add air scoops and exits. In the test model it was necessary to provide additional cooling of the ESCs by adding an air scoop in the wing.
Repeat the test for 2 minutes. If all is well, use a fresh set of batteries and run the motors at full throttle for 1 min and then half throttle until the batteries are exhausted. Time the duration and set this on the Tx timer allowing a margin of safety. Now we are ready for the test flight.
13.0 Test Flight The real A10 has a pitch down tendency. To compensate for this the designers built in 3 deg of negative incidence in the horizontal stabilizer and 9 deg of vectored up thrust at the jet exhaust. The model also has the negative 3 deg incidence, but requires some up trim to simulate the vectored up thrust. Dial in some up trim for the test flight. Once trimmed properly, the A10 is a very easy plane to takeoff, fly and land. HAPPY LANDINGS |